Dispensary Duty

I have dispensary duty this week and let me tell you it is the beauty school equivelent of Chinese Water Torture!

Sam Villa Textur Iron

I finally got to play with my new Sam Villa Textur iron after watching the Sam Villa Artificial Texture video.  I will post more photos later, but I love the way hair backcombs after using the Textur.  I also did the marcel curls after using the Textur for great beachy waves.

Magic In a Bottle

I have become a HUGE fan of Paul Mitchell Rapid Toner Ultra Violet.  It transforms yucky yellow highlights into beautiful platinum blonde.  However, I have purchased and used all my local CosmoProf had in stock and because of the snowy weather they have not had a truck in 2 weeks.  I dashed in to pick up some more today and had to substitute Paul Mitchell The Color Ultra Toner Platinum Blonde.  I hope it works as well because I did highlights on a classmate Tuesday before the snow hit and her highlights pulled pretty yellow.  She was unhappy and so was I.  She was so unhappy she decided to talk smack about me to our classmates after I left for the day.  I warned her prior to starting that we did not have any toner at school that would do the same job as the rapid toner and if she wanted it to look right she would need to buy some and bring it in so I could finish her hair.  Nonetheless, I will use the toner on her hair and her hair WILL LOOK FABULOUS!  I will post before and after photos for you to judge. 

I am also going to try Goldwell's new product:  New Blonde:  Five Minute Highlights Upgrade to soften her base.  I haven't tried it before, but I hope it is as good as they say.

I'm Back!

So sorry for the long delay since my last post.  I haven't abandoned the blog, but have had many issues preventing me from posting.  I'm back and hope to be more consistent in my posting from this point on.  I also hope Blogger program I downloaded for my iPhone will make blogging on the go possible.

Because I'm a Nerd

As I posted earlier in the week, I went to the Holiday Open House/Beauty Show hosted by our local State Beauty Supply this past Monday.  CHI was there and explained how their products use MEA as the alkalizing ingredient rather than ammonia.  One of the benefits of using MEA in their system rather than ammonia is that you can perm or texturize and color in the same day.  I wanted to learn more about MEA and knew that just because it was different didn't mean it was damage-free.  I believe all permanent hair color lines have some drawbacks; heck,  it is chemically changing your hair so there are going to be some issues and I am interested to learn about how hair color works on a molecular level so I was cruising the internet looking for information.  Here is an article I came across on P&G's website that I found interesting.  I hope you like it too.

http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/chemistry-at-a-glance.html

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Chemistry At-a-Glance

Oxidative Dye Formulas

Most oxidative dye formulations contain two or more ingredients that act as dye precursors or couplers, essential ingredients common to most permanent dyes. They generally consist of p-diamines and p-aminophenols. Precursors are oxidized to active intermediates when they have penetrated the hair shaft. Intermediates then react with ingredients called color couplers to create wash-resistant dyes. Couplers modify the color produced by the oxidation of precursor compounds.

A conventional oxidative colorant is made up of two components which are mixed together directly before application to the hair.

• DyePrecursor/Alkalizer/Thickening System—This component contains several ingredients, each with different functions. They are packaged together because they are completely compatible with each other and must be kept away from the oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide). 
• The first component is an alkalizing agent (usually ammonia and/or an ammonia substitute such as monoethanolamine [MEA]). This has a number of roles in the hair colorant process:
• Swelling the hair fiber to aid in diffusion of the dye precursors
• Raising the hair's internal pH and ensuring that the overall dye mix has a high pH
• Facilitating the formation of the dyes within the hair fiber and catalyzing melanin bleaching
• The second component is a mixture of dye precursors. These are the ingredients that react together within the hair fiber, resulting in the formation of color.
• The third is a surfactant (and optionally polymer) thickening system that provides the solubilization of the first two components (particularly the dyes) and, when mixed with the H₂O₂ component (below) provides the final viscosity to hold the product on the hair fibers without mess and dripping into the eyes, and if applicable, is tailored to work optimally with any application or mixing device supplied with the product.
• Hydrogen Peroxide Oxidant—It is essential that this component be kept at a low pH for storage to ensure stability; but it is only at high pH that bleaching and dyeing occurs. This component may also contain polymers or surfactants that thicken when mixed with the high pH tint, and/or provide conditioning and rinsing benefits when the combined dye mass is rinsed from the hair. Hydrogen peroxide plays the following roles:
• A source of oxidizing agent for catalyzing the reaction of dye precursors
• Dispersing and solubilizing the hair's natural pigment, melanin, while bleaching the hair's natural pigment and any previous artificial colorant present in the hair fiber

Once these components are mixed and applied to the hair surface, two complementary processes take place: bleaching the hair's natural pigment and other artificial pigments present in the hair, and diffusion of dye precursors into the hair, followed by coupling reactions that result in the formation of chromophores within the hair fiber, which are then too big to diffuse out of the hair. The end result achieved results in the balance of these two processes, the mixture of dye precursors, the initial hair color and hair quality.

More complex colors may contain several precursors and many couplers, and involve multiple reactions. To create each shade in the hair coloring spectrum,
formulators must become artisans, assessing which developers and couplers to combine, how much of each to use, and the ratio and total concentration of the
various intermediates.

How Coloring Alters Biology

Hair is protected by a covalently bound, mono-molecular layer of unique branched fatty acid - 18 methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA). 18-MEA, often referred to as the f-layer, is the fatty lipid layer that binds to the surface of the cuticle and acts as the hair's natural conditioning system. Because the f-layer has a natural lubricating
mechanism and is water repellent, it gives each hair fiber a built-in conditioning system that reduces damage caused by blow-drying and brushing.^{14, 15}  

f-Layer of a hair follicle

During permanent coloring, the combination of hydrogen peroxide, ammonia and high pH removes some of the protective f-layer, causing additional oxidation of the hair surface and some irreversible physiochemical changes in hair fibers. Repeated coloring can cause this protective surface to completely disappear. As a result, the hair becomes hydrophilic (water loving) instead of hydrophobic (water repellent), and the natural lubricating properties are removed. Hair is more susceptible to damage, feels dry and is hard to detangle. It looks duller and less colorful, and requires more conditioning.

Free Radical Formation—EDDS Addresses The HO* Radical

Most hair color users understand that by its nature, permanent color makes irreversible changes to hair structure. The bleaching and oxidation action chemically alter hair proteins, lipids and pigments. While pigment changes are desirable, the changes to proteins and lipids can cause hair to be more susceptible to damage. Most consumers adapt to these changes by using conditioners to protect hair and limiting hair color application to once every 4-6 weeks.

However, what they may not know is that not all the damage done by hair colorants is necessary. There are two key reactive species in current permanent hair color: the perhydroxyl anion (HOO-) and the HO* radical. The HOO- species is the species intentionally put in by manufacturers. While it has some damaging side effects, it is the species that is responsible for the desired changes to hair color. The HO* radical, however, is an undesired by-product of a reaction between H₂0₂ and metal ions. It does not contribute to the development of color but does contribute to hair damage. The elimination of this unnecessary free radical can significantly reduce hair damage without compromising hair colorant performance. One approach to reducing the free radical is to eliminate the exposure to metal ions. Metal ions come into the hair through exposure to water. Studies show that protein damage, as measured by formation of cysteic acid, is significantly reduced by elimination of copper in tap water.

Suppression of Free Radical Formation The suppression of free radical formation can be visualized microscopically by comparing gas production from a formulation containing no EDDS chelant (0.1% EDTA)  s. one containing EDDS (1% level). Signifi cantly fewer gas bubbles can be seen being formed in the sample treated with EDDS - clearly demonstrating the ability of EDDS to reduce the gas formation signifi cantly.

Gas Formation after 10 min., no EDDS

Gas Formation after 10 min., with EDDS

Addressing the HO* Radical

Recently, hair color scientists discovered a way to reduce damage from the HO* radical, blocking its formation with the use of chelants—molecules that can coordinate metals through multiple binding sites. They added EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid), a chelant which is highly selective to copper, to home hair coloring kits. During the coloring process, EDDS binds to the copper, preventing access to the copper by hydrogen peroxide, which results in better color formation and less damage. The preference of the EDDS for copper over calcium makes it superior to traditional chelants, such as EDTA or DTPA, and more efficient at preventing fiber damage.

A 5-cycle repeat test showed that EDDS prevents more than 95 percent of radical damage. After-care conditioners, which water-proof hair, additionally help prevent damage and copper absorption as color ages. By minimizing free radical damage, advances such as EDDS help hair remain resilient and retain a healthy, lustrous look.¹⁷

State Beauty Supply Open House

We got so lucky!  Originally we were scheduled to attend school on Monday the 25th, but since the schedule had to be rearranged we were able to be out of school for the State Beauty Supply Open House.  This was the first one I have attended and it was totally cool.  Educators from TIGI, Matrix and CHI/Farouk were on hand to do platform demonstrations as well as a few other vendors talking about their products.

The guy from TIGI was totally hot and did two beautiful hair cuts from their 2010 Anthem collection.  The 2nd one seemed like a modified scene girl cut and was very wearable while being a little edgy and different.  It was as completely disconnected as most scene girl cuts are, but you could see the street influence.

The chick from Matrix was an Arkansas native and had a beautiful voice and gorgeous blonde hair.  I had serious hair envy!  Since there were some high school students in the audience, she really tried to teach to them and ask questions of them and really explain as she went along.  It spoke well of her abilities as to how she adapted her workshop to her audience.  You could tell she had a passion for teaching and hair.

The CHI folks totally wowed me!  Jill and Maggie were enthusiastic and knowledgeable.  The did a color demo using alternating triangle placement of level 5 and level 6 copper shades.  The model came out with beautiful, dimensional color and rich shine.  The combination was great with her skin tone and the color was super believeable.  They also demonstrated their Orbit Irons on a model with long hair.  I really would like their double dramatic iron.  They also offered to shampoo anyone interested with their new Royal Treatment line.  I took them up on it since I had been an impromptu model for a mini contest with Matrix and had a ton of product in my hair.

Jill, who is a regional manager with CHI, shampooed my hair and offered to give me a cut as well.  I jumped at the chance!  She did a riff on my current cut, but gave me much more texture and made it asymmetrical - it was just the boost it needed.  They didn't have time to color my hair since this was a spur of the moment thing at the end of the day, but gave me a great color formula which I used on my hair today at school with fabulous results.  The CHI folks were super approachable and enthusiastic which was especially meaningful to a newbie like me.

I was also able to reconnect with a stylist friend I lost touch with over the last few years.  She was at the show and it was great to sit with an experienced stylist and get their take on what was happening on stage.

The attendees got lots of free samples to try and State was giving a 15% discount on all their regularily priced items.  I wished I had more money yesterday because I would have loaded up on goodies.

First Senior Week!

I survived my first senior week!  I am worn out after the intense week at school and moving the weekend before.  I hope to be able to catch up on posting this weekend.

I am still having a fantastic time in school and have met tons of cool people - clients and other students alike.

I worked at my old job last Friday and it was so hectic.  It was more confirmation I made the right decision.

Update

I got a 100 on test and have 5 bonus points on top of it.  I really should be working on my report on Galvanic Current and it's uses in cosmetology, but alas I am procrastinating.

My first and only client today was my mom.  She came up today to get the works:  pedicure, facial, wax, shampoo and style.  She wanted a cut, but her hair is too freaking short right now so I vetoed that idea.  I did clean up her next line a bit with clippers to appease her.  I did her pedi, my sister-in-law, the fabulous Ms. K, did her facial, our friend and classmate J did her makeup which she loved.  At the end she came back to me and I shampooed and styled her hair.  She had a great day of pampering and loved every minute of it - she fell asleep during FMK's facial.

A, one of the students graduating in December gave me a great new hair cut today.  She said she wanted to get rid of my old lady hair - I didn't take offense and was glad for her honesty.  Tomorrow she is going to color my regrowth and possibly do some lowlights if time allows.  Everyone at school hates my bright red hair :-(  As I mentioned in my previous post, I used Redken's Color Extend Red/Violet color-charged conditioner injection  last time I shampooed my hair.  A and Miss W, our instructor, wanted me to shampoo my hair tonight and get the temporary color out of my hair so we could see what we are really working with.  I found some Suave Naturals Daily Clarifying Shampoo in my bathroom and it has Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate two lovely alkaline ingredients guaranteed to open up the cuticle and suck the color right out of my hair!  Of course my hair felt like a brillo pad after, so I used Redken Silk Infusion and Redken Shot pHix to moisturize my hair and lock the cuticle layer back down.  A whole new meaning of better living through chemistry!  I would post photos of my new hair do, but that would mean styling my hair and applying make up which would be even more procrastination and the report is due at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow so that just isn't in the cards.  Hope to post pics tomorrow with new cut and color. 

In the meantime, here are photos of the products I used and a picture of my old hair do and mom post pampering.

Quote for the day from the school sign in sheet:  "Joy is the best makeup"

My First Client

I was the first student of my class to get a real client.  I am not sure if it was because the person working reception likes me or if they did it because they don't like me, but I know it wasn't because he was going alphabetically and I doubt it was a reflection of my skill level..  Maybe it is wrong to wonder why I got picked first, but things like this rent space in my head.  I certainly didn't mind and was very glad to get the experience under my belt. 

My lady, L.W., is 75 years old and has been widowed 3 years.  She moved to this town to be near her son when her husband died.  She came in for a pedicure, facial and waxing.  She was waiting at the pedicure station when I came up with all my supplies.  I introduced myself and found out her name.  I set up my lotion and implements and then asked what temperature she liked the water for the footbath.  Once I brought the footbath over, I asked if she would like for me to get her a magazine and she "No thank you, I want to talk".  My pedicure probably wasn't the world's best, but she seemed to enjoy it and it was obvious she was there as much for the company as the service.  I forgot to put cotton between her toes to separate them and she smudged her polish because she put her shoes on too soon, but she found out a lot about me and I pretty much heard the story of her life.  Making someone feel special is just as important as making them look beautiful.  I think she enjoyed the services she received today and she complemented me quite a bit on the facial massage. 

I couldn't help but be reminded about the foot washing ritual that is often performed in old timey churches and what a cathartic event it can be for a congregation.  It is something that is powerful and humbling both for the giver and the receiver.  I would rather have a pedicure any day over just about any salon service unless my grey is really showing - and even then I can handle my own grey, but you can't give yourself a satisfying pedicure experience.  Maybe I can knock off my own calluses, trim my own toenails and polish my own toes, but the joy of the experience of having someone else do that just isn't the same. 

Good night all.  I have a big test tomorrow and need to finish studying.

What Is In Your Shampoo?

I started delaying cleansing my hair everyday and try to go 3 days before "washing" my hair out of concern for how damaged my hair was.  In order to preserve my new intense red color, I have decided to try to forgo shampoo as much as possible and only wet my hair, massage my scalp and condition my hair.  I am hoping to only shampoo once every 10 days or so if I can stand it.  I am using dry shampoo on the days I don't condition to absorb excess sebum and avoid the greasy look.  I also decided to look at the ingredients in the dozen or so bottles of shampoo I have floating around on my counters and cabinets.

What an eye opener!  It is kind of frustrating to realize your premium, professional salon only shampoo contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Methylparaben and Methylparaben.  I expect these ingredients in grocery store brands, but not in products put out by one of the big names in haircare products.  The only shampoo I could come up with in my arsenal that is sulfate-free is Loreal EverPure Smooth Shampoo from Kroger.  I have a ton of Redken and Biosilk shampoo products and all of them have sulfates!  It is kind of hard to pimp these salon products when my Clairol Herbal Essesnces has many of the same ingredients.  It makes it really hard to justify the price difference with a straight face.

There are studies that say parabens are bad and other that say they are o.k.  Sodium Laureth Sulfate is an irritant and causes damage to the hair follicle.  It dissolves oil and denatures skin proteins which can cause skin to break down and allow in environmental contaminants.  Sodium Laureth Sulfate is cheap and that is why companies continue to use it.  I don't know that I want to cleanse my hair with a product that is also used as an engine degreaser.  I am going to do some more research and experiment with going shampoo free and see how it works out.  I need to look up the rest of the ingredients on each of the bottles so I know exactly what they do.  I kind of expect the shampoo lobby to come at me with their version of the high fructose corn syrup commercials.

My sister-in-law needed a deep conditioning treatment today at school and someone suggested Cholesterol.  I looked at the ingredients and Sodium Laureth Sulfate was one of them.  I can't figure out what a conditioner/moisture treatment would need with a degreaser.  It seemed counter intuitive.  I shampooed her with a Redken product not realizing it has SLES in it and then slathered Redken All Soft Heavy Cream on her hair.  We put a plastic cap over it and let her sit for 30 minutes.  I rinsed it out and sprayed Redken Shot pHix on it.  Her hair was super soft.  Now I feel like a dufus for ranting about SLES in the Cholesterol, but used a product containing it to shampoo her hair.